Updated Mini ESP32s3 Device Build (markdown)

Mini-ESP32s3-Device-Build.md

@@ -6,10 +6,10 @@ The Xiao S3 however comes with an external sticker antenna for the WiFi.  Even i
 ![image](https://github.com/rstrouse/ESPSomfy-RTS/assets/47839015/fbc35d26-5f26-4677-ac9a-3a3b30d881af)
 
 ## The Moonshot
-Intrigued by the size of the little bugger, I decided that I would try my hand at miniaturization.  The goal was to create the smallest ESPSomfy RTS device that I could without the benefit of a 3d printer or designing a PCB for it.  After all I have a bunch of breadboards laying around.  The goal was to make something as tiny as I could so just in case I decided to build a rocket to the moon I could take it with me while still having room for a couple of bottles of Scotch.
+Intrigued by the size of the little bugger, I decided that I would try my hand at miniaturization.  The goal was to create the smallest ESPSomfy RTS device that I could without the benefit of a 3d printer or designing a PCB for it.  After all I have a bunch of breadboards laying around.  The goal was to make something as tiny as I could.  Just in case I decided to build a rocket to the moon I could take it with me while still having room for a couple of bottles of Scotch.
 
 ## Parts List
-Digging around in my miscellaneous parts I came up with what I needed.  Below is a pic of what I used and I created a table below to give a better description of what these items are and what they are used for.  What isn't shown in the pic is the wire I used to 28awg silicone wire.  I used this wire because I have 10 different colors of it and silicone wire is very bendy so it can be pushed into tight spaces although any small gauge wire would do.
+Digging around in my miscellaneous parts I came up with what I needed.  Below is a pic of the items I used.  I created a table below to give a better description of what these items are and where I got them.  What isn't shown in the pic is the 28awg silicone wire that connected it all together.  I used this wire because I have 10 different colors of it.  As well, silicone wire is very bendy so it can be pushed into tight spaces although any small gauge wire would do.
 
 The quarter is only there for size reference and the numbers were superimposed on the picture after it was taken.  No need to get your hands on any of these items.  The numbers are for reference to table below the pic.
 
@@ -24,7 +24,7 @@ The quarter is only there for size reference and the numbers were superimposed o
 | 5 | Pin Header | The Xiao ESP32s3 does not come with pin headers.  You will need a strip of 2.54mm single row header to solder the ESP32 to our breakout board. | I had these laying around but you can source them from lots of places |
 
 ## Preparing for Assembly
-This build required a few steps for assembly.  Most notably as you can see the breakout board I used will not fit in the ABS box.  You will need to cut it down to fit.  I also carefully removed the pins from E07-M1101D so it would fit into the tiny box.
+This build required a few steps for assembly.  Most notably as you can see the breakout board I used will not fit in the ABS box.  You will need to cut it down to fit.  I also carefully removed the pins from E07-M1101D so it too would fit into the tiny box.
 
 ### Cut the Breadboard
 I carefully cut the breadboard so that it would fit tightly into the dimensions of the ABS box.  In the pic below you can see where I cut the board so that it fit into the box and the separation between the pins could be on each side of the ESP32.  My goal for using and cutting this board like I did so I could easily solder the wires to the E07-M1101D onto the section between the pin headers.  Once you have cut the breadboard make sure it fits inside the ABS box.
@@ -34,16 +34,18 @@ To cut the board I used my micro table saw.  However you could use the cutoff wh
 ![image](https://github.com/rstrouse/ESPSomfy-RTS/assets/47839015/79853e7b-db88-4eb7-bd44-fe82d136ed30)
 
 ### Remove the E07-M1101D Pins
-The pins on the E07-M1101D had to be removed.  These pins are too tall to fit within the ABS box.  I suppose I could have used a larger box but that might take up space for Scotch on my moon journey.  There is a trick to this as you do not want to damage the module pull out these pins. Take your time and do not try to force the pins out of the board.
+The pins on the E07-M1101D had to be removed.  These pins are too tall to fit within the ABS box.  I suppose I could have used a larger box but that might take up space for Scotch on my moon journey.  There is a trick to this as you do not want to damage the module as you pull out these pins. Take your time and do not try to force the pins out of the board.
 
-Begin by heating your iron and heating each pin from the top of the board while applying light pressure to the pin to push it flush.  If a pin doesn't want to push flush go on to the next one.  Eventually they will start to work their way through the board.  Take care not to damage the board with your iron.
+Begin by heating your iron. Then heat each pin from the top of the board while applying light pressure to the pin to push it flush.  If a pin doesn't want to push flush after about 5 seconds go on to the next one.  Eventually they will start to work their way through the board.  Take care not to damage the board with your iron.
 
 Once the pins are flush you can now heat each pin and gently pull the remainder of the pin out using needlenose pliers.  Don't force it if the pin is resisting, try another pin.  The plastic part of the header is likely menacing you, eventually it will loosen against the pin.  The more pins that get removed the easier it will become.
 
 After getting the pins removed you can use some solder removal braid to clean up the excess solder.  If you do not have any braid it also works to take a thin solid wire, heat the hole and push the wire through the hole where the pin used to be.  I used a leg of wire from an LED that I had in the e-scrounge.  We are doing this so that we can simply push the connector wire into the transceiver for soldering.
 
 ### Mount the Headers
-We are first going to mount the headers to the board we cut down.  The location where I soldered the headers for mine is outlined in red below.  I wanted the USB to be positioned as close to one edge of the box as possible but you can place these where you like.  Just be sure that the spacing between them is the width of the ESP32s3.  We are going to be mounting the ESP32 to the side where the long pins are located.  The short side of the header should be pushed into the board and soldered from the back side.  In the end you want the plastic part of the header to create a space (raceway) for the wires to route between the ESP32s3 and the breakout board.
+We are first going to mount the headers to the board we cut down.  The location where I soldered the headers for mine is outlined in red below.  I wanted the USB to be positioned as close to one edge of the box as possible but you can place these where you like.  Just be sure that the spacing between them is the width of the ESP32s3.  
+
+We are going to be mounting the ESP32 to the side where the long pins are located.  The short side of the header should be pushed into the board and soldered from the back side.  In the end you want the plastic part of the header to create a space (raceway) for the wires to route between the ESP32s3 and the breakout board.
 
 ![image](https://github.com/rstrouse/ESPSomfy-RTS/assets/47839015/546ec3d5-4627-463c-bbb5-4b1d71282e5a)
 
@@ -78,7 +80,7 @@ Start with pin the pins that are closest to the transceiver while soldering and
 ![image](https://github.com/rstrouse/ESPSomfy-RTS/assets/47839015/3e3dfd45-716e-4d17-9e64-960eb53773a8)
 
 ### Install and Test
-Before you solder the ESP32s3 to the pins first slide the ESP32 onto the top 1/3 of the pins of the headers ensuring the proper direction.  The USB port should be protruding past the edge of the board bottom in the orientation pictured above.  Do not push the ESP32 down all the way on the pins and using slight pressure on only one side of the board to push one side down slightly more than the other.  This will ensure good connection on the pins for testing.
+Before you solder the ESP32s3 to the pins first slide the ESP32 onto the top 1/3 of the pins of the headers ensuring the proper direction and pin alignment.  The USB port should be protruding past the bottom edge of the board using the orientation pictured above.  Do not push the ESP32 down all the way on the pins.  Then, using slight pressure on only one side of the board, push one side down slightly more than the other.  This will ensure good connection on the pins for testing.
 
 Now install ESPSomfy RTS, if you have not already and configure the radio so that the pin functions match the layout.  Test thoroughly as changing the wiring after you solder the ESP32 into place will become very difficult.